Things to Do in Havana

About Havana

Havana hits you with salt spray and diesel fumes before you've even cleared José Martí airport. The city smells of sea air, crumbling masonry, and the sweet-woody scent of oak-aged Havana Club rum being poured in dark bars where the ceiling fans haven't stopped spinning since 1959. This is a city preserved not by museums but by necessity, where 1950s American cars rattle down the Malecón seawall past art deco apartment blocks whose paint peels in the humidity like sunburned skin. Vedado, with its mid-century modern hotels and leafy university campus, feels like a different country from Habana Vieja’s restored colonial plazas, where you can pay 5 CUC for a mojito on a terrace Hemingway drank at, then walk two blocks into Centro Habana and find the same drink for 1 CUC on a stoop where locals play dominoes. The infrastructure is famously patchy — hot water is a luxury, the internet moves at dial-up speed, and blackouts still happen — but that’s what forces you into the street, where three pesos (about 12 cents) buys a paper cone of sweet roasted peanuts from a vendor in Parque Central, and the real music happens not in the Tropicana but in someone’s living room-turned-club. You come for the frozen-in-time aesthetic, but you stay for the defiant, inventive joy of a city that has learned to make everything last.

Travel Tips

Transportation: Havana’s transport is a choose-your-own-adventure in time versus money. The official yellow taxis at the airport will quote you 25-30 CUC for the 25-minute ride to Habana Vieja; the shared colectivos (1950s American cars) that depart from just outside the terminal charge 10 CUC per person and are a far better introduction to the city. For getting around, the almendrones (shared classic car taxis) that run along set routes like the P1 along the Malecón cost 10 CUP (about 40 cents) per ride — you just need to know the hand signals to flag them down. Avoid the bicycle taxis in tourist zones; they’ll charge you 5 CUC for a two-block ride. Your best bet for independence is to download the offline map app Maps.me before you arrive; Google Maps doesn’t work here.

Money: Cuba runs on a confusing dual currency system that’s currently in flux. As of now, you’ll use Cuban Convertible Pesos (CUC), pegged 1:1 to the USD, for almost everything tourist-related. Bring all the cash you’ll need in crisp, unmarked euros, Canadian dollars, or British pounds — U.S. dollars are technically accepted but hit with a 10% penalty, making them the worst choice. Exchange at the CADECA offices (look for the sign) or your hotel; avoid black-market changers on the street, no matter how good the rate seems. Credit and debit cards from U.S. banks still don’t work, and even non-U.S. cards are rarely accepted. Budget about 25-40 CUC per day for food, drinks, and local transport if you’re eating at paladares (private restaurants) and taking the occasional taxi.

Cultural Respect: Cubans are famously warm and direct, but a few unspoken rules smooth the way. Always ask before taking a photo of someone, especially the classic car owners in Parque Central — a smile and a “¿Foto?” goes a long way, and a 1 CUC tip is expected if they pose. When invited into a home (which happens often), bring a small gift like coffee, soap, or school supplies; these items are genuinely appreciated. Political conversations are complex; listen more than you opine. Dress respectfully when away from the beach — no bathing suits or short shorts in town. And learn a few phrases beyond “hola” and “gracias”; even stumbling through “¿Cuánto cuesta?” (How much?) or “Está bueno” (It’s good) will earn you smiles and better prices.

Food Safety: You’ll hear warnings, but eating well in Havana is about knowing where to look. The state-run restaurants with their fluorescent lights and laminated menus are the risky ones. Instead, head to the paladares — family-run restaurants in homes — where the food is cooked to order. In Habana Vieja, La Guarida’s ropa vieja is legendary, but for half the price (around 8-12 CUC), find the unmarked door at Calle Habana #105 for a home-cooked feast. Street food is generally safe if it’s cooked in front of you and served hot; the pizza stands on every corner (1 CUC a slice) are a staple. Drink only bottled water (agua sin gas), and skip the ice unless you’re at a reputable bar. The real secret? Eat where the line of Cubans is long; they know which vendor’s pork is freshest.

When to Visit

Havana’s weather has two gears: sweltering and less sweltering. The dry season (November to April) is the conventional sweet spot, with daytime highs of 26-28°C (79-82°F), low humidity, and virtually no rain. This is also peak tourist season — hotel prices jump by 40-60%, and you’ll need to book your favorite paladar weeks ahead. December’s Festival Internacional de Jazz (late Dec) draws global crowds. The shoulder months of May and October are a gamble worth taking: temperatures creep up to 30°C (86°F), afternoon thunderstorms roll in, but prices drop and the streets feel more like Havana and less like a theme park. The true off-season is the wet summer (June-September), where 32°C (90°F) days come with 80% humidity and brief, torrential downpours. Hotel rates can be half of winter prices, and you’ll have the Malecón to yourself at sunset. But be ready for power outages and mosquitoes. If you can handle the heat, July’s Carnaval (dates vary) is a sweaty, glorious, all-night block party. For most, late April or early November strikes the best balance: the rain has mostly passed, the crowds haven’t yet peaked, and you can still get a room at a decent casa particular for 25-30 CUC a night.